Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns I see in clinic, and it can be frustratingly stubborn. Whether it’s caused by sun damage, post-inflammatory marks from acne, hormonal shifts like melasma, or general uneven tone that’s crept in over time, pigmentation can have a big impact on how your skin looks, and how you feel in it. The good news is, there are some excellent over-the-counter options that can help. If you’re not quite ready for in-clinic treatments, or you’re looking to support professional results at home, here are the ingredients and products I genuinely recommend.

Understanding hyperpigmentation

Before diving into treatment options, it’s important to understand what’s actually going on in the skin. Hyperpigmentation happens when your skin produces too much melanin in certain areas. This can be triggered by UV exposure, inflammation, hormones, or even injury. It’s your skin trying to protect itself, but that defence mechanism can leave behind dark patches that don’t always fade on their own.

Treating pigmentation successfully means not just fading what’s already there, but also preventing new pigment from forming. That’s why a good regime will combine exfoliation, pigment inhibition, and most crucially, sun protection.

The one product everyone needs: Sunscreen

Let’s start with the non-negotiable. If you’re dealing with any form of pigmentation, a broad-spectrum SPF 50 is essential every single day, all year round. Even on cloudy days or when you’re mostly indoors, UVA rays can penetrate glass and trigger melanin production. Without consistent sun protection, even the best pigmentation treatments will struggle to make progress.

I often recommend mineral-based SPFs with added antioxidants, which help shield the skin from further oxidative stress. Look for ingredients like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, niacinamide, or vitamin C for added skin benefits.

Topical ingredients that really work

Not all over-the-counter products are created equal, but there are a few key ingredients backed by science that can significantly reduce pigmentation over time.

Vitamin C is one of my favourites. Not only is it a potent antioxidant, but it also inhibits melanin production and helps brighten the skin overall. Look for stable forms like L-ascorbic acid or tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate for best results. Clinical Skin and Revision Skincare both offer beautifully formulated vitamin C products that layer well under sunscreen in the morning, and Revision’s Intellishade sunscreen even contains THD ascorbate!

Another excellent option is azelaic acid. This multi-tasking ingredient is brilliant for fading post-acne marks, calming inflammation, and gently brightening the skin. It’s one of the few pigment-fighters that’s safe for sensitive skin and even during pregnancy, which is why I often recommend it for melasma.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is another ingredient worth including in your routine. It reduces the transfer of pigment to skin cells, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves overall texture. It’s also well tolerated by most skin types, making it an easy addition to almost any regime.

Retinoids for renewal

If your skin can tolerate it, retinoids are a game-changer. They speed up cell turnover, which helps fade dark spots more quickly and keeps the skin looking smooth and even. Over-the-counter retinoid products can be very effective when used consistently, but it’s important to introduce them gradually to avoid irritation.

I recommend formulas that combine retinoids with soothing or hydrating ingredients, like ceramides or peptides, to reduce the risk of dryness or sensitivity. SkinBetter Science’s AlphaRet is a favourite of mine – it delivers visible results without the harshness that many associate with retinoids.

Combining ingredients for best results

When it comes to hyperpigmentation, layering the right ingredients is often more effective than relying on a single product. For example, using vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night can target different mechanisms involved in pigmentation. Pair that with a gentle exfoliant a few times a week, like lactic acid or PHAs, and you’re giving your skin every opportunity to renew and brighten.

Consistency is key here. Pigmentation doesn’t fade overnight, and it’s easy to get discouraged if you don’t see immediate changes. But with a well-chosen routine, you can expect to see gradual but noticeable improvement over 8 to 12 weeks.

When over-the-counter isn’t enough

While at-home products can be incredibly helpful, there are times when pigmentation calls for a more advanced approach. If you’re dealing with deep melasma, stubborn sun spots, or a combination of concerns, professional treatments like chemical peels, laser therapy, microneedling, or prescription-strength pigment inhibitors may be more appropriate.

In these cases, I often design a tailored plan that combines in-clinic treatments with a strong home-care routine. That way, we’re addressing pigmentation from multiple angles and supporting the skin’s health at every stage.

Takeaway advice

Hyperpigmentation is complex, but that doesn’t mean you need a 10-step skincare routine. With the right ingredients and consistency, over-the-counter treatments can go a long way in improving skin tone, restoring glow, and boosting your confidence.

If you’re feeling unsure where to start or want guidance on which products will work best for your skin, book a consultation with me. Together, we’ll find the right balance between in-clinic treatments and skincare that supports your skin goals.